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On a bustling evening at New York’s Contento , a restaurant celebrated for its globe-trotting fare and wine program, head sommelier Abe Zarate faces a challenge from diners eager to try a wine similar to the light, fruity profiles of Pinot Noir or Beaujolais. “I This is a Mexican wine made from the Misión grape.”
On his and the other organic vineyards from which he sources, he hand-harvests separate lots, then micro-ferments them with native yeast to create the palette of wines he blends for Cava in the off-grid cellar he built into the bones of a 19th-century winery on his estate. Still others labeled their wines D.O. In response, the D.O.
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